Wednesday, March 23, 2011

The Rules For Frustration

Peak-peak Olibón Bernera.

Bernera Olibón and spikes. The beauty of the mountains "secondary." 03/20/2011


Peaks Olibón Bernera and the beautiful, seen from the west ridge of Llana of Bozo.

While a "crowd" was going to Bisaurín, from the shelter of Lizara (Aragües Port-Huesca) 1540m. We guide our steps toward Olibón and peak Bernera. The mild temperatures during the day yesterday, followed by a good cold night made saliésemos without snowshoes, providing a rapid transformation of the snow, with low risk of avalanches. Before going into the snow at an altitude of 1700, we reached a mountain climber surnamed Navarre Pau, that if before going solo, from now on would wrong company. By sharing the goal of peak Bernera, joined forces and will "cheat" to increase also the beautiful Olibón.

Bernera Massif from the Valle de Aisa. The name of the Bernera peaks is unclear.
Before coming to the hill of Bozo, 2019m, we put on crampons. Pau JL and conspired to set a pace fuertecico shooting. From the pass we turned northwards into a small valley hanging by a belt up (Bosses at right). It is not advisable to go much, because then I would play down to the bottom of the valley.

Bernera Massif from the summit of la Llana of Bozo. Today's route in red.
As we rise to the Port of Bernera, we to the left of the entrance to solid Bernera, then seeing a pyramid of snow, is the beautiful peak Olivone. The top is a beautiful Olibón sleek, overshadowed by being surrounded by higher peaks.
Mesola
the background and the hill of Bozo.

Home
crest east to Olibón.














I
from behind I point the lens edge Olibón Southeast. Pau awarded me the title of "cartajenari" which is what they call the Basque mountaineers, who carry the maps in the head. Seems normal to me familiar with the environment where you move, control at all times where you are, the altitude, as is to the top and possible routes of ascent, without drawing a map or a toy. Today, GPS is causing people to accommodate, to stop their "obligations" in the hands of a machine that takes away the charm of the mountain. The essence of mountain climbing has always been to integrate with the mountain man with his strength and intellect running a challenge, knowing it is part of your security. Entrusted to a machine, is that it can leave you hanging for: damage, loss, software failure, battery depletion, etc.
Behind the plain and the lip O. Bozo easy and elegant.

final part of the ridge, 45-50 º.

The east ridge begins to 2350m, is broad in its early and moderate inclination 30 °. The slope goes up to 45-50 º emphasizing its final stretch, leaving us an edge, and on top of the 2482m Olibón PD. There not know if you step on land, or you are overloading a ledge, you're going to give away a free flight of pure close it is.
Olibón Bluff, close and very air. Magnificent landscape of mountains known.
Continuing south along the ridge (normal route F), to Rueben of Bernera, is delicate. So they went down the shovel Olibón southern (40 °) and then up the hill flank. Cornice is formed on the north side of the ridges. We are beginning to form clogs when we arrived without problems Bernera ROOF OF F 2479m.

peaked
of Bernera 2479m. Behind the Olibón certainly is a beautiful mountain , his right-hand edge SE.
bifida is a crest. Its summit ridge widens as the tours westward, reaching a level rock (The normal route Rueben is down from the south, then climb a small valley to the other peaks).

Bernera Northeast Peak 2479m. (ROOF OF Bernera?). We Bisaurín dominates.
found a rocky highlight a weakness, a small corridor of 60 °. Not to return and make a detour, we decided to lower it. JL assumes the task of opening track (after hair done at the corridor OS Serrato, AD +, and down the corridor edge and NO, is in a state of grace). Take a few laughs down with an ice ax for snow 60 degrees crust, while the tip of the crampons scratching the rock.

downclimbing 60 ° (Shortcut) Pau photo. To the right. photo front step.



















Next flanked towards a hill, 2390m altitude, which is the core of the Massif of Bernera. Its four vertices form a kind of plateau. The next target is the top Northwest Bernera 2455m, F . Its edge summit is bare of snow, so you have to go carefully with crampons.

picture from the top Northwest Bernera 2455 (Bozo of Bernera?). We see today's summit ridge.
After lunch we approached the final climb of the day for South Bernera peak 2450 m F -. After viewing rearward of the day, we started the descent through a valley that descends to the west. At level 2200 see the remains of an avalanche, possibly fall on Friday, a huge plate of wind off covering almost the entire blade, curiously the slice thickness was small despite the snowfall last week. By snow avalanche descended better, by not forming clogs. Almost at the bottom of the valley, across the refuge Forest (Cota 1980m) avoid a ridge on the right. The snow continues to accompany us during the descent on the way to Lizara are up to the 1800m altitude.

Bernera Southeast 2450m Cima, the flat bottom and Aspe. In the distance the Collarada. "We sang a Jotic?

If we had Pau deceived, for these four peaks, the trick to make us Via Ferrata Lizara . The bees were present only intermediate section, so we could do without risk or discomfort (Prudence and respect, if we try the ferrata, and bees are buzzing around the crack-swarm not weather). The ferrata is good for stretching back muscles.
Mini collapse in Lizara Ferrata after the bees leave behind.
has been a great day of mountain. The doomsayers had exaggerated the risk of avalanches in this area today, yesterday Pau sank in the snow and only 24 had been settled a lot. Good weather, good snow (Ideal to have gone with tables), good mountains and better company. It's a nice route, varied and affordable for the mountaineer half, we can slice squares 60 degrees in the normal way.

View Olibón-Bernera in a larger map

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